NBT upgrade EVO system tutorial for 14 F18 original cars!

  3
 August 16, 2024
Unwittingly, the old car has a history of nearly 7 years. Looking back at this car, I feel very satisfied and the driving quality is very good! The appearance still feels as good as the new model, but the only thing is that the interior is really a little old, especially the car machine system. With the brothers and sisters’ evo homework, especially the intelligence of carplay and carlife and voice, changing EVO will be put on the agenda! As there are no detailed tutorials in this area in the forum, friends who want to change this can refer to my post! All right, don’t talk too much nonsense, it’s necessary to be full of pictures and texts:

Pull down the right glove box first. The decorative board for drawing a rectangle is integrated, and it is all clasped inside. Hold the direction of the arrow with your hand and pull hard in your own direction until the whole interior panel is detached (all are clasps, don’t worry about breaking it)

This is the map of the house after the whole decoration panel is removed, which is the one-button start interface, the air conditioning interface and the central control lock interface, all of which are very easy to disassemble, and there is a wire harness buckle that can be pulled out. Don’t be afraid to break it. German things are very hard!

All right, it’s time to pick up the air conditioner panel. Remove the left and right screws, reach into the direction of the arrow with your hand, and then pull them out with a force facing yourself. Remember not to use brute force at this time. Although there are all buckles inside, you must use a uniform force to pull out. It would be better if the hand could reach into the middle of the air conditioning panel.

At this time is the matter of air-conditioning plug, one on the left and right, each plug has a relevant buckle, take a look at the scene to understand how to do it. This is no longer described!

Excited, nbt mainframe is inside, at this time as long as the circle of 4 screws off, then the whole host can be taken out smoothly. Warm tip: the center control handle and ceramic knob side, remember to protect it with a towel at all times, otherwise it is easy to scratch!

After the mainframe is removed, don’t be busy dismantling, take a picture to record the corresponding plug and data cable, so as to avoid making a mistake when replacing the evo mainframe! Ps: the green plug is the aux plug, which is of no use. In order to prevent abnormal noise, I wrapped it with art tape.

Take another look at the fm and gps sockets. Take a picture and write it down so as not to make a mistake! Friends who need the nbt mainframe of the original car can trust me privately, only this one!

All right, make a comparison with the gatekeeper brothers. Found that the original car nbt mainframe is much larger, and relatively heavy, the same ebo mainframe is much lighter! And the ebo mainframe is covered by black (faster than the white cover! )

Yes, the eho mainframe is Harman’s, imported from the original German factory, N times better than the Koreans!

The interface on the back has been found, the top of the full interface is equipped with an evo mainframe, and it took a long time to find it, and the host date is very fresh, 41max 19, the original gps interface, it is said that this thing sells one less! Friends who are still hesitant can consider buying it. Now the price of evo is slowly coming down!

Because my original car has a large nbt screen, the voltage used does not match that of the evo mainframe, so the video cable of the original car cannot be used, so it has to be replaced with a step-down cable. My method is to take this video cable according to the original car cable harness, then fix the video cable with tape, and then connect it to the corresponding plug.

Ps: before wiring the step-down cable, be sure to draw it on the screen and on the mainframe, because the style of the connector is different, determine which end.

I am the original factory control, wifi antenna bought is also the original factory. It’s a little expensive, though. But the things of the original factory are still a little different from those of the deputy factory, because it will not report the trouble code! And the signal is more stable and stronger! After inserting the wifi port, just put it under the mainframe. Remember to fix it with viscose to avoid abnormal noise.

It is to connect the mainframe before wiring, so it is very safe! As for the display screen, I will not repeat it. There are two screws on both sides of the display screen, and the screen will be removed naturally after it is unscrewed.

So far, it’s almost done! Don’t go back to your place first, turn on the remote and ask the long-waiting masters to help you brush the data remotely! Make sure there’s no problem. Resetting!

Not yet remote status, the screen shows no signal!

At this time, the look-up display is very interesting, and it can already show the specific horsepower!

Remote including mapping is a professional thing, we can have a rest while playing ps: tell the remote master in advance what things have been modified by the factory in front of him, because they have to write all the data in advance!

All right, the remote is over, and the relevant Chinese content appears on the big screen!

Check whether the reversing image, including some of the functions installed in the original factory, are in good condition, and confirm that the reset is correct.

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