The joy of doing it yourself
BurkeHenry 
8 I have always been troubled by the problem that the back door of the Outlander is difficult to close. Although it is related to the design of the pressure relief port, the main reason is that the back door is light, so I came up with the idea of making my own sound insulation, which can be solved by adding a shock stop plate to increase the weight of the door.
Since you want to add a shock absorber, why not add a frequency divider, because the high pitch of this car is achieved through capacitors, and I personally feel that the model used for capacitors is not very suitable.![]()
It just happened that there were no arrangements for the weekend, so I bought a 3.2-meter shock-stopping board, 3.2-meter soundproof cotton, and two frequency dividers from a treasure in advance, totaling 190 yuan.
To be honest, Outlander’s car door insulation is okay, right? It’s in line with the rules. Look at the pictures and talk.
I didn’t take much photos during construction, so I’ll just make do with it. The videos have dry goods.
Since you want to add a shock absorber, why not add a frequency divider, because the high pitch of this car is achieved through capacitors, and I personally feel that the model used for capacitors is not very suitable.
It just happened that there were no arrangements for the weekend, so I bought a 3.2-meter shock-stopping board, 3.2-meter soundproof cotton, and two frequency dividers from a treasure in advance, totaling 190 yuan.
To be honest, Outlander’s car door insulation is okay, right? It’s in line with the rules. Look at the pictures and talk.
I didn’t take much photos during construction, so I’ll just make do with it. The videos have dry goods.
The original soundproof plastic paper at the front door has a layer of foam cotton on the outside
This is what the original factory sound insulation looks like. The big hole on it is too scary and should be sealed. There are a few shock-stopping plates in the inner layer, which should be used to avoid resonance.
The original speaker, the 15-watt one, is too small, but for a non-enthusiast like me, I will just use the original one. There is no need to replace it with the 40-watt one. Just add a divider to make the sound more three-dimensional.
As you can see that the original factory has added a lot of sound-absorbing cotton to the door panel, which is quite conscientious. The one in the lower right corner is a high-density foam, which should be used for collision buffer. I don’t understand it either. Please give me an answer.
This is for the back door. The door and door panels are made of sound-insulating materials. They are also torn off and replaced with new ones.
A certain treasure bought a frequency divider. This merchant specializes in making Hifi desktop audio. Seeing that the car he uses is also well made, I bought a pair, 45 pieces each.
The treble signal of the original car comes directly from the host. A capacitor is added to the treble head. If it is connected to the frequency divider, the wire needs to be cut off. This is the incoming wire end. After cutting, it is covered with heat-shrink tubing to protect it. The divider is installed directly above the subwoofer, about 3CM away from the loudspeaker, and is fixed with self-tapping.
One thing should be noted when changing the treble head: break off one foot of the capacitor originally connected to the treble head (no photo taken), and then use 0.5-1 square oxygen-free copper wire to hang tin to connect the other foot to the treble head terminal. Use an electric soldering iron here.
One thing should be noted when changing the treble head: break off one foot of the capacitor originally connected to the treble head (no photo taken), and then use 0.5-1 square oxygen-free copper wire to hang tin to connect the other foot to the treble head terminal. Use an electric soldering iron here.
This is the sound insulation.
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