Last week, the oil pipe of the left rear brake was worn and leaked, and the brake failed. I jumped back and set up the car. I bought the parts online and changed it by the way. As a result, the seller sent fewer screws and wasted a few more days. I changed it against the sun today. I’ll think about it. I may not have to worry about it in the future.
The brake oil is so corrosive that the paint on the hub is blistering, ah, it hurts.
This pipe was said by the car the year before last that the oil pipe was blocked and replaced by the repair shop. He did not fix it for me, which led to the grinding of the wheel hub. I was also blamed for my carelessness.
The culprit who almost lost his life, when I was in the mountain, I found that the brakes were getting softer and softer. I thought it must have leaked. Fortunately, it didn’t explode, at least a little. I dared not step on the first gear and went all the way back to the project department. I almost ran out of oil in the kettle when I came back.
Brick service
First disassemble the original tubing, the back is the most difficult, I can’t remove the bracket at all, the left one is cut by an angle grinder before it is restored to its original position, the right side simply does not disassemble, it stays on it, the front one is simple, and the old oil is cleaned after removal.
Remove the old one, remove the caliper screw first, and then remove the screw of the metal tubing when the pipe can move.
Install and fix it on the clip first, be sure to fix both sides at a good angle before tightening, or install the caliper screw for a while, and it will break over a long time. The principle is that you can’t screw it or break it, and then screw on the brake tube of the original metal.
Install caliper screws, two copper gaskets, remember to clean the surface, to a good angle, do not fold, do not twist, do not grind, this screw made me wait more, did not match it with me.
Avoid the handbrake cable, the fixed iron piece can be broken with a wrench to the right angle distance, not twisted, not folded, not worn.
The original tube of the right rear wheel was not willing to be cut, so I thought I would just leave it here for standby. If something happens in the field temporarily in the future, this pipe can be connected directly, and the pipe can be directly screwed in and fixed with fine screws, so that it will not go into ash. The original caliper screw is put in the car for backup, it can be used when it is taken out, and the live wrench can be used, and the wrench can be fastened with a coarse tie.
The steps are the same: position the steel throat, install the iron pipe above, and then install the caliper screws without folding, twisting or grinding.
The front wheel is easy to disassemble
Remove the iron pipe first
Reopen the fixing clip
Take down the caliper screw.
One will come down, the same operation, screw the two ends of the pipe into a circle and throw it into the trunk for backup.
Take it down. That’s it.
The same operation is done on the left.
Bought a set of tool and caliper maintenance pins
There is a clip in the front, but you need to bend 90 °by yourself. Install the pipe before breaking. There is a fixed screw in the reserved space. Then it will be the same. Fix the pipe, find the angle, screw the iron pipe, and install the caliper screw.
Remember that each screw is two copper gaskets. Don’t leak it.
After emptying all the oil in a liter, there is also one point left to drain the air. According to the order from far to near, the emptying is arranged first to the right, then to the left, then to the right, and finally to the left, because abs is closest to the left pipeline, loosen the oil release screw, step hard on the fuel injection, spray oil on each foot, and then wring to death, every one of them is like this, remember to start to step on ha, fill up the oil pot, and then step on him ten or twenty feet in place to make sure you are safe.
Comparison of the three screws, the original caliper screw below, the M10 × 1.5 above the middle small thread M10 × 1.0, the top of the caliper screw, and the middle one is the same as the original iron pipe thread. I used him to circle the two ends of the original car tube.
Take care of the calipers and get rid of a spray
Forgot to buy a piston repair kit. Next time, clean up the guide pin, squeeze new lubricating oil, insert it, put on calipers, and get the job done! If the car walks on a bumpy road, there will be a clatter with hand-shaking calipers, that is, there is a gap between the two guide pins. It would be better if they were changed, or they would be a little lazy and filled with oil, or there could be no sound, but the oil could only last for less than a year and still ring.
There are drag marks on all four wheels when the brakes are dead. Finish the job.
Go out for a ride.
ShirleyPater 
3 
September 5, 2024 
